Stone façade of a small church with a white cross and a bell gable under a blue sky dotted with clouds.

The Hermitage of Madonna del Riparo

A few kilometres from Foligno, near Scandolaro, at the foot of Monte Cologna, stand the hermitage and the small church of Sant’Angelo de Gructis, commonly known as Madonna del Riparo.

As its original dedication reveals, their existence was linked to the cult of Saint Michael, which was widespread throughout Europe during the Middle Ages. The sanctuary was one of the many places of worship created ad instar, that is, in imitation of the most famous and important one on Mount Gargano in Apulia.

Michaelic sanctuaries in Umbria must have been numerous, but today their memory has largely been lost. Over time, some of these places were rededicated to the Virgin Mary, who according to later iconography of the Immaculate Conception, defeated the Dragon that Saint Michael then confined to the bowels of the Earth. Evidence of this continuity of worship can still be found at the sanctuary of Madonna del Riparo: the traditional pilgrimage was held here on 8 May (the day commemorating Saint Michael’s apparition at the cave on Mount Gargano) and on 29 September, feast day of the Archangel – a tradition still alive today.

The ancient history of the Hermitage of Madonna del Riparo, between noble lords and prodigious discoveries

This site was most likely a pagan temple in ancient times, as often happened near springs. Owing to the presence of therapeutic waters, in the 11th century Count Offredo Monaldo built a small church dedicated to Saint Michael on its remains. The Monaldo, of Lombard origin, were a prominent family in the area (sources consider them ancestors of the Trinci and Barnabò families of Foligno, as well as the d’Alviano family of Attigliano). Later, the property passed to the Counts of Turri, whose fortress can still be seen above the little village of Scandolaro, and they maintained ownership until the 17th century. When the family line died out, the sanctuary passed to the Benedetti Roncalli. In 1899 Benedetto Benedetti Roncalli sold it to Eutizio and Domenico Federici of Scandolaro, whose descendants still own it today.Over the centuries the small church dedicated to Saint Michael fell into disuse. In 1842, while workers were repairing the roof, a landslide led to the fortunate discovery of a large natural cave, with a painted image of the Virgin on one wall. The discovery caused a great stir and was considered miraculous. Crowds flocked to the cave, and miraculous healings were reported from the very beginning. Restored thanks to the faithful, the church became known as the Sanctuary of Madonna della Grotta or del Riparo.

A small church and a miraculous cave

From the sanctuary there is a splendid view over the Foligno valley and the surrounding mountains. The complex consists of a small 19th-century renovated church with a masonry façade and a little bell tower with a window, leaning against a large natural cave. The interior has a single nave with a semicircular apse and a barrel vault. Access to the cave is via a staircase carved into the rock. On the left side of the cavity, which takes on an ellipsoidal shape towards the back, stands the altar with the fresco of Madonna del Riparo, flanked by a wooden statue of Saint Michael Archangel, sheltered under a small tin roof supported by columns. A passage within the cave was turned into living quarters for the custodian who once watched over the site.

The ancient fresco of the Virgin was irreparably damaged by humidity; however, a copy made when it was still legible shows a Madonna (perhaps from the 14th or 15th century) with a wide blue mantle envelopping the faithful in prayer. To the left of the Virgin was Saint Michael, and to her right Blessed Paolino Trinci, a Franciscan tertiary who died in 1377.

Healing with miraculous water

Near the entrance of the cave there is a cistern-well, always full of water, believed to have healing properties. The water dripping from the cave’s walls and vault was also considered miraculous and was collected by the faithful in bottles to take home and use for healing purposes. Two pilgrimages were traditionally held at the cave each year, the most attended being on the feast of Saint Michael: hundreds of devotees would come to drink and bathe with the cave’s water. According to a now-lost ancient tradition, when a local inhabitant fell gravely ill, seven young girls accompanied by an older woman would walk to the small church to ask for grace. In the sacristy, an album of photographs documents the most recent healings; in the past, however, it was customary instead to hang crutches and walking sticks in the cave as proof of recovery.

Even today, on the feast of Saint Michael, many faithful come to visit the site, and after Mass the priest distributes the traditional blessed pagnotelle (small loaves of bread) to those present.

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