Exceptional “tourists” such as Michelangelo Buonarroti, Giosuè Carducci, Gabriele D’Annunzio and painters such as William Turner and Johan Ludvig Lund, who immortalised the town in their notebooks, became infatuated with Spoleto. Today, the town is a perfect balance of art, beauty, history and events.
The history of Spoleto
The settlement of Spoleto was shaped by its geomorphological conformation, characterised by abundant springs and a strategic position on an easily defensible hill. Its history is a succession of eras and dominations that have left behind an unparalleled artistic and cultural legacy.
Inhabited since Neolithic times, it became an important centre for the Umbri during the Iron Age, who transformed it into a flourishing settlement, with a social structure dominated by an aristocracy of princes and princesses, as evidenced from some of the necropolises in the area, such as that of Piazza d’Armi.
In 241 B.C., the Romans made it a colony with the name of Spoletium, benefitting from its proximity to the Via Flaminia. Fortified and enriched by imposing public works, the town entered the historical chronicles in 217 B.C. when it repulsed Hannibal’s advance after the Battle of Lake Trasimene. During the Empire, remarkable monuments such as the Arch of Drusus and Germanicus and the refined Roman House were built.
With the arrival of Christianity, Spoleto became an important religious centre, a stage for martyrs and influential bishops. However, it was with the Lombard invasion that the town took on a new political role: in 570 it became the capital of the Duchy of Spoleto, ruling over central Italy until the arrival of Charlemagne and its incorporation in the Holy Roman Empire.
In the Middle Ages, the town was contested by emperors and popes. Frederick Barbarossa conquered and destroyed it in 1155, but in 1198 it finally became part of the Papal States. The symbol of papal power remains the Rocca Albornoziana, erected in the 14th century.
What to see
The historical centre and Roman remains
The heart of Spoleto is a fascinating labyrinth of medieval alleys, where numerous traces of Roman times can be found.
- Arch of Drusus and Germanicus: an imposing Roman arch that once led to the ancient forum, today’s Piazza del Mercato.
- Remains of the Roman forum: near the Arch of Drusus and Germanicus, you can admire some remains of the Roman forum, including a temple of unknown dedication, later transformed into the crypt of St. Isaac, located under the Church of St. Ansano.
- Roman Theatre: dating back to the 1st century B.C., it was brought to light between 1954 and 1960. It still hosts performances and is part of the National Archaeological Museum in Spoleto, which houses artefacts from the Bronze Age to Roman times.
- Roman House: an elegant 1st century A.D. residence discovered in 1885, which preserves the atrium and elegant mosaic floors. The domus, built near the Roman forum, belonged to a high-ranking individual, identified by an inscription as the mother of Emperor Vespasian.
- Roman Amphitheatre: dating from the 2nd century AD, partially visible and incorporated into the urban fabric. It was used for shows and gladiatorial games.
- Ponte Sanguinario (Bloody Bridge): a three-arched travertine Roman bridge, built in the 1st century BC to provide a safe crossing over the Tessino stream along the ancient Via Flaminia. The name, possibly derived from a corruption of the name of the amphitheatre’s Sandapilaria gate, has fuelled legends of numerous beheadings of martyrs occurring here, including that of Saint Pontian.
The Lombard Sites of the Duchy of Spoleto
- Mosaics of Palazzo Mauri: the Palace, now home to the Municipal Library, preserves an interesting 6th-century mosaic, showing how the forensic area of the town remained active even after the fall of the Roman Empire, becoming the seat of the Lombard aristocracy.
- Basilica of San Salvatore: a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is a unique example of Lombard architecture, blending Byzantine and classical influences. Its façade and interior are a triumph of elegance and craftsmanship.
- Church and Monastery of San Ponziano: built near the Basilica of San Salvatore, it too is probably of Lombard origins. Built on a paleo-Christian cemetery, the crypt houses numerous sarcophagi of martyrs, including Saint Pontian, who was beheaded in 175. The monastery was built around the year 1000, while the church, dating from the 12th century, retains a valuable Romanesque façade.
- San Paolo inter vineas: a 10th-century church with 13th-century frescoes, a little-known yet fascinating gem. Its origins, however, date back to the 6th century: Pope Gregory the Great reports that in 593 a Lombard bishop, a follower of Arius, lost his sight upon entering the church.
Medieval and Renaissance masterpieces
Churches and monuments tell the story of centuries of art and devotion:
- Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta: a Romanesque jewel with a mosaic reminiscent of Byzantine art on the façade. Inside, you can admire frescoes by Filippo Lippi, the bronze bust of Urban VIII by Bernini and the painted Cross by Alberto Sotio, one of the most significant artworks of the 12th century.
- Church of Sant’Eufemia: built in the 10th century on the site of the Lombard dukes’ residence, it was restored when the abbess Gunderada founded a Benedictine monastery. The church, accessible from the Diocesan Museum, features a three-nave interior with unusual women’s galleries.
- Church of San Gregorio Maggiore: it was built in 1079 and consecrated in 1146 in honour of the Spoleto martyr Gregory. His remains and those of numerous martyrs were collected by his widow Abbondanza, who established a cemetery and an early Christian church.
- Church of San Pietro: known for its Romanesque façade, adorned with bas-reliefs depicting medieval stories, including scenes from Saint Peter’s life and moral allegories.
The Albornoz Fortress and the “Ponte delle Torri” Bridge
Standing in a dominant position overlooking the town, the Rocca Albornoziana is a medieval fortress that offers a breathtaking view of the valley. Built in the 14th century at the behest of Cardinal Albornoz, it is a symbol of papal power and today houses the National Museum of the Duchy of Spoleto as well as exhibitions and cultural events. The Ponte delle Torri (Bridge of the Towers), which connects the town to the sacred forest of Monteluco, is an 80-metre-high medieval aqueduct, perfect for a panoramic walk offering unforgettable views of the town and valley.
Contemporary Art
Spoleto is also contemporary art and culture.
- Among its most famous works is the Teodelapio, a majestic 18-metre high iron sculpture by Alexander Calder which has become a symbol of the town. Created in 1962 for the Festival dei Due Mondi, it was one of the first large-scale permanent installations of contemporary art in Europe. The sculpture’s name is inspired by the Lombard duke Teodelapio, son and successor of the founder of the duchy Faroaldo, linking the modernity of the work to the Spoleto’s history.
- Palazzo Collicola houses the Museum Palazzo Collicola Arti Visive - Carandente, showcasing works by internationally renowned artists such as Pino Pascali, Sol LeWitt and Leoncillo Leonardi. The collection, originating from the Spoleto Prize, offers an interesting journey through the artistic movements of the 20th century.
Monteluco and the sacred forest
Just outside the town, the sacred forest of Monteluco is an oasis of peace and spirituality, perfect for hiking and relaxation. Consecrated to Jupiter by the ancient Romans, the forest maintained its sacredness with the advent of Christianity, becoming a refuge for hermits and monks. Landmarks include the Hermitage of St. Francis (1218), the church of San Giuliano and numerous hermitages nestled in nature, bearing witness to the intense ascetic life that flourished on the mountain from the 6th century onwards.
Events
Spoleto is famous for the Festival dei Due Mondi, a cultural event that attracts artists and spectators from all over the world. Founded in 1958 by Gian Carlo Menotti, the festival features a rich programme of opera, theatre, dance and music.