If you think Umbria is only about hilltop medieval villages and peaceful rolling hills, get ready to change your mind. Nestled in the picturesque Upper Tiber Valley, Città di Castello is a delightful surprise. Elegant and unexpected, it holds a unique secret: a perfect balance between the splendour of the Renaissance and the revolutionary power of contemporary art, set within a landscape where a strong connection with nature coexists with a dynamic industrial tradition.

Located just a few kilometres from Tuscany and within easy reach of both the Marche and Emilia Romagna regions, this border town combines many of the landscape characteristics and architectural features that characterise these neighbouring territories.

The "City of Happiness"

Founded by the Umbri on the left bank of the River Tiber, Città di Castello became an ally of Rome during the 3rd century BC. In the 1st century BC it was granted the status of a Roman municipium under the name Tifernum Tiberinum.

During the 1st century AD, Gaius Plinius Caecilius Secundus, better known as Pliny the Younger, became patronus municipii, or civic patron, an influential figure who offered protection and support to the town. Pliny’s family certainly owned a villa in the area, frequently mentioned by Pliny himself in his letters. Archaeological remains believed to be part of this residence have been identified at Colle Plinio, in the municipality of San Giustino. According to one of his letters, Pliny also commissioned the construction of a temple between AD 103 and 104, although its exact location remains unknown.

According to tradition, the Roman town was evangelised by Saint Crescentinus (Crescenziano), who was martyred in Tifernum between the 3rd and 4th centuries AD. After being sacked and destroyed by the Goths under Totila during the 6th century, it was rebuilt by Bishop Floridus, later proclaimed a saint and the city's patron.

The town was subsequently conquered by the Lombards, who renamed it Castrum Felicitatis and incorporated it into the Duchy of Tuscia. Although it passed through several periods of outside rule, during the 12th century it became a free commune, adopting the name Civitas Castelli in the early 13th century.

Despite lying at the centre of political struggles involving the Holy Roman Empire, the Papal States, Florence and Perugia, the city experienced a period of prosperity during the 13th century, reflected in the public buildings erected at that time.

In 1367 Città di Castello lost its independence after being annexed to the Papal States by Cardinal Albornoz. In 1422 Pope Martin V entrusted the city to the condottiero Braccio Fortebraccio da Montone, whose family remained in power for around twenty years.

Later, control of the city was contested among its leading noble families. Following a period of internal conflict, the Vitelli family emerged as the dominant power. Distinguished patrons of the arts as well as military leaders, the Vitelli played a decisive role in the city's economic and artistic development, commissioning magnificent palaces and inviting some of the greatest Renaissance artists to work in Città di Castello.

In 1502 Cesare Borgia, known as Il Valentino, proclaimed himself Duke of the city and definitively brought it under Papal rule, where it remained—with only brief interruptions—until the Unification of Italy in 1861.

During the Second World War, Don Beniamino Schivo, rector of the city's seminary, courageously sheltered refugees and people facing persecution, including a Jewish family. For his actions he was recognised as Righteous Among the Nations. Among those who found refuge with Don Schivo was Elio Toaff, Chief Rabbi of Rome, who was awarded honorary citizenship of Città di Castello in 1999.

A Journey Through Renaissance Palaces and Masterpieces

The imposing sixteenth-century walls, still largely intact, enclose a historic centre that has preserved its late medieval and Renaissance character.

The town is centred around two main squares, affectionately known to locals as "Piazza di Sopra" (Upper Square) and "Piazza di Sotto" (Lower Square).

Piazza Matteotti, the so-called Upper Square, has always been the heart of the city's civic life. It is home to the Palazzo del Podestà, built in 1368 by Angelo da Orvieto. The side facing Corso Cavour preserves the surviving portion of the medieval structure, distinguished by nine pointed Gothic arches decorated with coats of arms and ornamental friezes. A larger archway marks the main entrance, leading to the elegant seventeenth-century loggia overlooking nearby Piazza Fanti. Above each doorway are rounded windows, while the piano nobile features beautiful mullioned windows.

The neoclassical façade facing the square, crowned by a small central bell tower, was completed in 1687 by architect Nicola Barbioni. It is adorned with two clocks—one indicating the hours and the other the minutes—as well as a compass rose.

Also overlooking the square are the elegant Bondi-Mancini Palace, Cappelletti Palace, and Palazzo Vitelli in Piazza, one of the many residences commissioned by the powerful Vitelli family. Compared to the family's other palaces, this building stands out for its more austere architectural style.

Just a short walk from Piazza Matteotti, along Corso Cavour, visitors will find one of the area's most remarkable examples of traditional craftsmanship: Grifani Donati Printing House, founded in 1799 and now home to the Museum of Graphic Arts, which celebrates a centuries-old printing tradition that remains one of the distinctive features of this part of Umbria.

The Lower Square, officially Piazza Venanzio Gabriotti, has long been the centre of the city's religious and political life. It is named after Venanzio Gabriotti (1883–1944), who was awarded the Gold Medal of Military Valour and a leading figure of the anti-fascist Resistance in the Upper Tiber Valley.

The square is surrounded by several important monuments:

• The Cathedral of Saints Florido and Amanzio, distinguished by its unusual cylindrical bell tower inspired by Ravenna's architectural tradition.
• The Town Hall, another masterpiece by Angelo da Orvieto dating from the fourteenth century, recognisable by its rusticated stone façade and elegant sequence of mullioned windows.
• The Civic Tower, built in the thirteenth century, offering splendid panoramic views over the town and still preserving traces of a fresco commissioned from Luca Signorelli in 1474.
• The Archbishop's Palace, rebuilt several times over the centuries, whose present appearance dates mainly from the eighteenth century.

A visit to the historic centre would not be complete without exploring the Municipal Art Gallery, housed in the magnificent Palazzo Vitelli alla Cannoniera. Often referred to as "the Uffizi of Umbria", the gallery has recently been expanded with new exhibition spaces and displays masterpieces by Raphael, Luca Signorelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Raffaellino del Colle, and Pomarancio.

We suggest wandering through the streets of the old town, soaking up its unique atmosphere among elegant Renaissance palaces, refined courtyards, arcaded loggias, peaceful cloisters and historic churches, including Santa Maria Maggiore, Santa Maria delle Grazie, San Francesco, and San Domenico.

Before leaving, be sure to visit the town's artisan workshops. Città di Castello still preserves a prestigious tradition of artistic printing and hand-weaving, in which centuries-old skills continue to be passed down from one generation to the next. Particularly worth a visit is the Textile Collection on the second floor of Palazzo Tommasini, which tells the fascinating story of the renowned Tela Umbra weaving workshop.

For younger visitors, and not only them, the Malakos Shell Museum houses one of Europe’s largest shell collections and offers dedicated workshops and activities.

The Unexpected Home of Contemporary Art: The Burri Effect

Città di Castello is a must-see destination for lovers of modern art. It is the birthplace of Alberto Burri, one of the greatest and most influential artists of the twentieth century.

The Fondazione Burri offers a truly extraordinary experience across two exceptional venues: Palazzo Albizzini and the Ex Seccatoi del Tabacco (Former Tobacco Drying Sheds).

Palazzo Albizzini, an elegant Renaissance residence, houses many of Burri's early masterpieces, creating a fascinating dialogue between its refined historic interiors and the artist's groundbreaking works, including the celebrated Tar, Moulds and Sacks series.

The Ex Seccatoi del Tabacco, as the name suggests, occupy a vast industrial complex entirely painted black on the outside. Personally designed and curated by Burri, they display his monumental pictorial cycles in an exhibition space unlike any other. This striking example of industrial archaeology rivals some of the world's leading contemporary art museums in cities such as New York and London.

Beyond the Town Walls

The countryside surrounding Città di Castello offers a wealth of artistic, historical and natural attractions.

Among the highlights are:

• the Oratory of San Crescentino in Morra, home to remarkable frescoes by Luca Signorelli and his workshop;
• the Church of Santa Maria di Canoscio, one of Umbria's most important Marian pilgrimage sites;
• the Sanctuary of Madonna di Belvedere;
• the Abbey of Badia Petroia, a fine example of Romanesque architecture dating from the 11th and 12th centuries;
• Villa Franchetti "La Montesca", surrounded by a centuries-old park home to rare botanical species.

In Garavelle, in the farmhouse opposite Villa Cappelletti, visitors can explore the Livio Dalla Ragione Centre for Folk Traditions, one of Italy's earliest museums dedicated to preserving the objects and traditions of rural life.

Not Just Art: The Flavours of the Upper Tiber Valley

A visit to Città di Castello is also a journey through authentic Umbrian cuisine, enriched by the neighbouring Tuscan culinary tradition.

One of the area's greatest treasures is the prized white truffle, the undisputed king of local gastronomy and celebrated every autumn during a nationally renowned truffle fair.

Be sure to sample baggiana, a traditional dish prepared with broad beans, tomatoes and basil, typically served with tigella, a small round flatbread.

Another local speciality is ciaccia sul panaro, a delicious focaccia traditionally cooked on a hot stone or griddle and filled with local cured meats.

The Upper Tiber Valley is also famous for mazzafegato, a distinctive dark sausage made primarily from pork liver, together with other offal—including spleen, kidney and heart—and small quantities of lean pork.

Wine lovers should not miss Vino Affumicato, a unique fortified wine recognised as a Slow Food Presidium, produced from Trebbiano grapes blended with Malvasia and Grechetto varieties.

Città di Castello is a place where beauty constantly renews itself.

Whether you are passionate about art, fascinated by history, eager to discover authentic flavours or simply looking for an unexpected destination, this remarkable corner of Umbria will surprise you with its unique blend of heritage, creativity and timeless charm.