Symbols of celebration, abundance, and good fortune, in Umbria cappelletti in broth remain the dish that warms the home more than any other on winter days: a simple yet precious tradition that unites past and present in one irresistible spoonful.
History of the cappelletto
The Romans did not yet know cappelletti by name, but they already enjoyed tracta, a thinly rolled pasta filled with either a sweet or a savoury stuffing. The same is true for the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, periods in which filled pasta frequently appeared on aristocratic tables and in convents, though without yet taking on the form and identity we know today.
The first certain reference of cappelletti appeared much later, in 1811, in Romagna: a document of the time recounts that the people of Forlì were particularly fond of a ricotta-filled pasta called cappelletti, specifying— with not-so-subtle irony— that the greediest were said to be the priests. A detail that also explains the name: those little parcels of pasta resemble an ecclesiastical cap, an unmistakable reference to the belief that the clergy were a bit too fond of culinary pleasures.
The arrival of cappelletti in Umbria
From their lands of origin—where the friendly rivalry between cappelletto and tortellino has raged for centuries, enriched by the famous legend of Venus’ navel—the tradition spread southwards, passing through the Marche and eventually reaching Umbria.
Here, in the region where the art of norcineria has always been a source of pride, the filling takes on a new character: ricotta gives way to a flavorful mixture of meats—pork, veal, chicken, or turkey. A hearty, generous variation perfectly aligned with the Umbrian culinary tradition.
Cappelletti, kings of the festive season
Today, cappelletti are the undisputed stars of Christmas lunch—and often New Year’s as well. Each family treasures its own “unbeatable” recipe, secret enough to be passed down only to the most trusted.
The true magic, however, happens around the table where they are made: the hand-rolled dough, fingers sealing each little stuffed “hat” one by one. The only rule for the perfect cappelletto is that the pasta must remain tightly sealed during cooking so it does not lose its rich filling.
For the broth:
Place the capon in plenty of water with the cleaned carrot, celery, and onion. Cook for about two hours, skimming off any foam when needed.
For the filling:
Sauté the minced chicken and pork in a large pan over a high flame with two tablespoons of olive oil, salt, and pepper. Stir continuously. Once cooked, chop the meat with a knife together with the prosciutto, transfer to a bowl, and mix in the pecorino and a pinch of nutmeg.
For the pasta:
Combine the flour and eggs, working the dough for about ten minutes, first with a fork and then by hand, until smooth and even. Leave it to rest while the broth is cooking. Roll out the dough with a rolling pin, then leave it to rest for about half an hour.
Cut the pasta into rounds using a round cutter, place a small ball of filling in the centre of each, fold into a half-moon, and seal the tips together to form the traditional cappelletto shape.
Cook the cappelletti in plenty of broth and serve piping hot.
