Carp in Porchetta
The Umbrians didn’t traditionally know how to cook fish, given their distance from the sea, so they prepared it as if it were meat. This has recently been highlighted in a CNN article: “The Italian place where you don’t eat ‘Italian’ food”. And let’s be honest, Umbrians have a soft spot for porchetta: pork porchetta, rabbit in porchetta, and goose in porchetta are just a few examples.
Start by preparing the herb-infused lard mixture (battuto), using either a mortar and pestle or a simple food processor. Blend the lard with rosemary, sage, and wild fennel, then add a pinch of salt and pepper, mixing until well combined. Set aside.
Next, clean the carp: it should be descaled, gutted and thoroughly rinsed under running water to remove all traces of mud and any impurities. Rub the inside of the carp with vinegar. Once washed and drained, proceed with the seasoning.
Using a sharp knife, make deep incisions along the back of the fish, which will then be pillottate (stuffed) with the herb-infused lard mixture. To further enhance the flavour, place some of the lard mixture or breadcrumbs soaked in vinegar inside the fish’s belly.
Drizzle some olive oil into a baking dish and place the carp inside. Season with a bit of lemon juice and a drizzle of olive oil. Let the fish marinate in the refrigerator for a few hours.
Traditionally, the carp is cooked over wild fennel stalks or split lake reeds, allowing the fat to drain away. A regular oven rack can also be used for this purpose.
Bake at 190°C, occasionally basting the fish with white wine and pan juices using a sprig of rosemary. Depending on the size of the fish, bake for about an hour and a half to two hours. Once slightly cooled, the carp can be plated and served. For extra flavour, drizzle each portion with a bit of the pan juices.
Tip: If you find small fish eggs while cleaning the carp, don’t throw them away! They are a delicacy known as Caviale del Trasimeno (Caviar of Lake Trasimeno) and are perfect for making delicious crostini or a flavourful pasta dish.
