Dried Roveja seeds, small and round, with shades of brown, green, and grey, scattered on a light surface.
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The Roveja of Civita di Cascia

South of Perugia, along the banks of the Nera River, an ancient legume grows, rediscovered over the years and recognized as a Slow Food Presidium in 2006. It is the Roveja of Civita di Cascia, also known as “roveggia”, “roveglia”, “rubiglio”, “corbello”, or “field pea”.

Because it has always grown wild as well, some researchers believe it to be an ancestor of the common pea; others, however, argue that it is a distinct species (Pisum arvense) separate from the pea (Pisum sativum). Although its botanical classification remains uncertain, there is no doubt about the nutritional value of this legume, which, in Cascia, represents a deep-rooted tradition, closely tied to the land, its inhabitants, and their culture.

Tradition, characteristics, and production

A staple food and a vital source of sustenance for the families of shepherds and farmers who lived at high altitudes, the Roveja was commonly used to prepare hearty soups together with lentils, chickling peas, fava beans, and beans, or mixed with spelt. It is a small legume, similar in appearance to the pea.

Dried Roveja seeds, arranged in rows on a white surface, with shades of brown, green, and ochre.
Dried Roveja seeds, small and round, with shades of brown, green, and beige, shown in close-up detail.
White plate with cooked Roveja, small and round legumes in a brown colour.

Initially, the pod is green, but as it matures, it turns dark purple. The colour of the seeds, when fresh, can range from green to grey, while once dried, they tend to be dark brown; the flowers are purplish. Due to its ability to withstand low temperatures, it is mainly in the high peaks of the Sibillini Mountains that vast fields of Roveja could be found: in the past centuries, it was grown along the entire Umbrian-Marche Apennine ridge, from the Colfiorito Plateau to the Gran Sasso, passing through Cascia and Castelluccio.

Despite its ability to grow easily, cultivating this legume is quite demanding. Just as with lentils grown at high altitudes, harvesting Roveja is particularly difficult: reaching over a meter in height, its stems tend to bend towards the ground, making it impossible for mechanical combine harvesters to pass. For this reason, Roveja is still harvested by hand today, and as a result, only a few farmers continue this tradition, mostly in the Valnerina and near Cascia, in a locality called Preci, where a spring known as “Fonte dei rovegliari” (Spring of the Roveja growers) is located. In this area, Roveja is cultivated in the spring and summer: it is sown in March at altitudes ranging from 600 to 1200 meters, requires very little water, and is harvested between the end of July and the beginning of August. The threshing process is similar to that of lentils: when half of the leaves have turned yellow and the seeds have become waxy, the stalks are cut and left to dry in the field. Once dried, they are gathered on the threshing floor, threshed, and finally the grain is cleaned of impurities using sieves and winnowing.

In local cuisine

Rich in protein, carbohydrates, phosphorus, and potassium, yet free from fats and gluten, the Roveja is a highly nutritious legume with numerous health benefits: tasty and nutrient-dense, it is an ideal food for celiacs, athletes, and vegetarians. Delicious and versatile, Roveja can be eaten fresh or dried. It pairs well with chickling peas, fava beans, and spelt, and can be used to prepare flavourful soups or stews, or stone-ground into flour. This flour, with a slight bitter aftertaste, is used to make “farecchiata” or “pesata”, a traditional polenta typically seasoned with a mixture of anchovies, garlic, and extra virgin olive oil. This dish is also delicious the next day, sliced and toasted in a pan.

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