Albornoz Fortresses
Art in Umbria

Albornoz Fortresses

A journey to discover the medieval fortresses built by the Spanish Cardinal

Majestic and austere, these fortresses still dominate the towns where they were built, witnesses to the endeavours of Egidio Albornoz, a Spanish cardinal who coordinated their construction in order to reaffirm papal authority over the territories of the Papal States.

 

Who was Egidio Albornoz?

Gil Álvarez Carrillo de Albornoz was born in 1310. His father was a descendant of the Spanish king Alfonso V of León, while his mother belonged to the royal house of Aragon.

Appointed cardinal in 1350 by Pope Clement VI, under Pope Innocent VI Albornoz was given the prestigious task of consolidating the possessions and power of the Papal States. His action was aimed at countering the rebellions of some towns in central Italy that had rebelled against papal control during the Avignon Papacy, when the papal seat was no longer in Rome.

Egidio Albornoz succeeded in this endeavour by building imposing defensive fortresses, often entrusted to famous architects, which became symbols of the restoration of papal authority. In Umbria, the towns of Assisi, Spoleto and Narni host some of the most beautiful Albornoz fortresses, while those of Todi, Spello and Piediluco have been almost entirely lost. Evidence of his work, which left numerous defensive structures throughout the region, also remains in the massive city walls of Bettona, damaged during the occupation of the town by a coalition of Perugians, Sienese and Florentines.

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Stage 1
Parco della Rocca in Todi

At the highest point in the town of Todi, 411 metres above sea level, is the Parco della Rocca (Park of the Fortress), where one can admire the remains of the fortification commissioned by Cardinal Albornoz, who died in 1367, built posthumously in 1373. The defensive structure was erected at the behest of Pope Gregory XI on the ruins of the Abbey of San Leucio.

It was built at a time when the town of Todi, recently annexed to the territories of the Papal State, had rebelled against the new power, so much so that it was destroyed as early as 1382. It was rebuilt by Braccio Fortebraccio in 1423, only to be finally demolished in 1503 by Lodovico Atti.

The most important surviving element of the Todi fortress is the Mastio, an imposing circular construction that, together with the other vestiges in the park, create a charming setting from which it is possible to enjoy the panorama below and the valley that extends to the Tiber. A path, called the “Passeggiata della Rocca” (Fortress Walk), runs through the Beverly Pepper Sculpture Park, the first monographic contemporary sculpture park in Umbria and the first created by the American artist in the world.

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Stage 2
Assisi - Rocca Maggiore

Just outside the walls of Assisi, accessible from Porta Perlici, stands the majestic Rocca Maggiore, which has dominated the town for over 800 years.

The earliest historical information on the Rocca of Assisi dates back to 1173-1174, when Cristiano Magonza conquered the town on behalf of Frederick Barbarossa, who lived here for a short time. It is believed that Frederick II, Barbarossa’s nephew and future Emperor, also spent part of his childhood here, entrusted to the custody of Conrad of Urslingen, Duke of Spoleto and Count of Assisi. In 1198, during the popular uprising that ended the rule of Duke Conrad, the fortress was damaged by the people of Assisi. It was only rebuilt in 1356 by the Spanish cardinal, maintaining the 12th century layout.

The fortress underwent further modifications at the end of the 14th century. In1458, a polygonal tower was added to the north-west, connected to the fortress by the corridor built the following year by Pope Pius II, while in 1478 Pope Sixtus IV restored the four-sided keep. In 1535, Pope Paul III built the mighty circular bastion.

At the end of the 15th century, the fortress was the scene of bloody feuds between the Fiumi and Nepis families. In 1501, Cesare Borgia settled there, followed by his sister Lucrezia.

Having lost its defensive function in the 16th century, the Assisian fortress was used as a residence for castellans, as a prison and finally as a warehouse, only to be restored in the late 20th century.

The fortress also gained fame thanks to the film “Brother Sun, Sister Moon" by Franco Zeffirelli, shot in 1972 and inspired by the life of St. Francis.

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Stage 3
Spello - The fortress inside Palazzo Baglioni

As happens to many vestiges of the past, the Albornoz fortress of Spello has undergone several transformations over time, which have substantially altered its appearance.

The fortress was originally built in 1358 by Filippo d’Antella, rector of the Duchy of Spoleto, over the seat of the Oratory of the Recommended of Santa Maria della Misericordia. Later, according to the provisions of Pope Innocent VI, it was entrusted to Cardinal Albornoz. With the arrival of the Baglioni family, the fortress was incorporated into their palace, becoming an integral part of the noble residence.

Today, the building, located in Piazza della Repubblica, is used as a school, but parts of the original defensive walls remain, bearing witness to the Albornoz intervention in this town as well.

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Stage 4
The fortress of Lucrezia Borgia in Spoleto

Less than 50 km from Assisi, the majestic Fortress of Spoleto, with its six towers, invites you to be captivated by its grandeur.

Situated on Colle Sant’Elia, the fortress is connected to the Monteluco forest by the monumental Ponte delle Torri (Bridge of the Towers), a work of Roman origin rebuilt in the late Middle Ages. At its foot, the scenic route of the Giro della Rocca, about 1 km long, offers a breathtaking view of the town and the Spoleto valley.

(Please note: The Ponte delle Torri is currently not accessible. Until its reopening, to reach Monteluco it is advisable to follow the directions included in the trekking route).

The Albornoz Fortress in Spoleto was built starting in 1359 to become one of the most important strongholds of papal power after the Avignone Papacy. From 1362, the work was entrusted to the architect Matteo di Giovannello, known as Gattapone, who designed an imposing rectangular structure with two internal courtyards: to the north the severe Cortile delle Armi (Weapons Courtyard), used for military purposes, to the south the refined Cortile d’Onore (Courtyard of Honour), with the reception rooms and residential areas such as the Camera Pinta (Painted Room), frescoed in the 15th century with scenes of chivalric themes.

The Camera Pinta is located inside the Torre Maestra (Main Tower), known as the “Spiritata” (haunted), the most imposing of the six towers protecting the fortress.

The fortress is embellished with numerous coats of arms that testify to the passage of illustrious guests, including numerous pontiffs and powerful families such as the Colonna, Cybo, della Rovere, Medici and Borgia families, perhaps the most famous of all, thanks to the passage of Pope Alexander VI’s eldest children, Cesare Borgia and his sister Lucrezia, who ruled the city from 1499 to 1502.

Transformed into a penitentiary from 1817 to 1982, after extensive restoration it has returned to being an architectural wonder of the town. Today it is home to the Museo Nazionale del Ducato di Spoleto (National Museum of the Duchy of Spoleto), linked to the history of the Longobard Duchy that arose in 570.

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Stage 5
Fortress of Piediluco

The Fortress of Piediluco crowns the hill overlooking the lake of the same name. It was built on an earlier castle dating back to the early 11th century. In 1244, Frederick II of Swabia granted ownership to the Brancaleoni family, who transformed it into a stately home. The reception and residential rooms can still be distinguished today, while a coat of arms of the family with two lions can be seen on the portal.

During their occupation, the building was disputed between the towns of Terni, Rieti and Spoleto until it was purchased in 1364 by Blasco Fernadez di Belvisio, a relative of Albornoz. The Cardinal restored the fortress and enhanced its defensive function.

The most distinctive feature of the fortress of Piediluco is the majestic pentagonal keep on five levels, of which the lower one served, together with the cistern in the centre of the courtyard of arms, as the water supply for the entire complex.

The property remained in Fernandez's hands until 1368, when he and his son were killed by the inhabitants of Piediluco. From this time until the 19th century, the fortress passed through many owners, progressively losing its defensive function and becoming more of a residence, until it was eventually abandoned.

Today what remains of the fortress is immersed in dense tree vegetation, but from its remains one can enjoy a panoramic view of the placid waters of Lake Piediluco, reflecting the surrounding hills.

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Stage 6
Fortress of Narni

The southernmost Albornoz monument in Umbria is the Fortress of Narni, an imposing fortification that dominates the historic centre below and the narrow gorge crossed by the Nera River and the Via Flaminia. The fortress was erected between 1360 and 1370 on the site of a former monastery of the Poor Clares and, before that, a military settlement built by Frederick Barbarossa. In 1460 it was partially modified by Pope Pius II.

Its structure, designed by famous architects such as Ugolino di Montemarte and Matteo Gattapone, has a quadrangular plan with four corner towers, the most imposing of which constitutes the keep. On the entrance door are two Gothic portals and four carved coats of arms, probably belonging to Popes Gregory XI and Urban V and Cardinals Anglico De Grimoard and Philippe d’Alençon. Inside, one can admire fragments of frescoes, including a Madonna with Child, from the 15th-century Umbrian school, and the coat of arms of Pope Urbano IV.

Today it is possible to explore the interior of the fortress to admire the ancient courtyard, the coats of arms and the history of the Landsknechts’ attack. The rooms on the Piano Nobile house a thematic display with reproductions of objects such as musical instruments, weapons and historical costumes, which illustrate aspects of daily life in the Middle Ages.

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