Located in southeastern Umbria, surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills and crossed by the Nera and Serra rivers, Terni tells a unique story made of antiquity, industry, and breathtaking landscapes. Known as the “Italian Manchester” for its pioneering role in the 19th-century industrial revolution, the city has succeeded in blending its manufacturing heritage with the charm of a territory rich in natural treasures, such as the spectacular Marmore Falls.
Glimpses of a history with ancient roots
The protohistoric necropolis and the birth of the city between two rivers
The earliest traces of settlements in the Terni area date back to between the Chalcolithic and the Bronze Age, including a hut village discovered in the area now occupied by the steelworks. From the early Iron Age onward, the site shows continuous settlement, with small residential clusters located where the future city would stand: archaeological evidence seems to confirm the foundation date of 672 BC, recorded in an inscription from the Tiberian period.
Belonging to the same phase of occupation is the so-called “delle Acciaierie" (steelworks) necropolis, brought to light in 1884 during the construction of the industrial plants. It was used from the 10th to the 4th century BC by the Nahartes, the people who inhabited the Nera Valley.
In the 3rd century BC, Terni entered the Roman sphere. The consul Manius Curius Dentatus, famous conqueror of the Sabines, initiated the reclamation of the Lacus Velinus and, by diverting the waters of the Nera, created the famous Marmore Waterfall. Interamna Nahars became a flourishing municipium between the Republican and Imperial periods, favoured by abundant water resources and fertile land.
The urban centre, crossed by the branch of the Via Flaminia that continued towards Spoletium and corresponded to the cardo maximus, was enriched in the 1st century AD with monumental buildings such as the theatre, amphitheatre, and at least two bath complexes. The emperor Marcus Claudius Tacitus and the historian Cornelius Tacitus were both born here.
Between the 6th and 7th centuries, Terni endured repeated invasions and destruction. It was conquered by Totila’s Goths in 546, by Narses’ Byzantines in 554, and by the Lombards in 755, becoming part of the Duchy of Spoleto. In 1174 it was destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa, before passing under the rule of the Papal States in 1420, where it remained until the Unification of Italy.
The development of the industrial city
Between the 18th and 19th centuries, Terni experienced a flourishing phase, becoming Umbria’s main manufacturing centre. Starting in 1832, the city underwent major changes: the ancient city walls were demolished, the road axes and waterways were redesigned, and imposing industrial complexes and modern hydroelectric power plants arose in the lower Valnerina, powered by the waters of the Marmore Falls.
During World War II, Terni became a strategic target, suffering as many as 108 bombings that profoundly altered its urban landscape and affected its industrial hub. In the 1970s attempts were made to revive the local economy, but the closure of historic factories, such as the Cinturini Jute Mill in 1970 and the Papigno hydroelectric plant in 1973, left an irreplaceable void in the city’s industrial and social fabric.
Rare traces of the past among modern buildings
Despite the more recent chapters of its history, Terni has preserved part of its artistic heritage:
- Basilica of Saint Valentine: it houses the relics of the patron saint, who lived in Terni in the 3rd century and later became famous worldwide as the protector of lovers. It is a popular pilgrimage destination especially in February, when the city comes alive with events dedicated to love.
- Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta: an ancient building erected in the 12th century, its modern appearance is the result of transformations carried out over the centuries. The façade features eight statues of bishops from Terni, while the interior preserves traces of 16th-century paintings and the 2007 work Mistica Rete by Ricardo Cinalli. The crypt houses the tomb of Saint Anastasius, bishop and martyr of Terni.
- Church of San Francesco: built in 1265; in 1437 it was expanded with three naves and the Chapel of Saint Bernardino. Its bell tower, with Gothic two-light and triple lancet windows, was built in 1345 by the sculptor Angelo da Orvieto. At the end of the central nave is the Paradisi Chapel, frescoed with a Dante-inspired Last Judgement painted by Bartolomeo di Tommaso.
- Church of San Salvatore: built on a Roman domus from the Republican and Augustan periods, where four rooms with cocciopesto floors and part of the peristyle have been identified. Further west, a thermal complex has emerged, probably linked to the same residence. Inside stands a circular apsed structure of uncertain function, probably dating to the 9th century, and a 12th-century nave. According to tradition, it was here that King Liutprand met Pope Zacharias.
- Church of Sant’Alò: built in the 11th century over a temple dedicated to Cybele. Roman reused materials can be seen inside and at the base of the bell tower, including circular altars, fragments of funerary monuments, and two lions placed along the entrance steps.
- Church of San Lorenzo: built in the 11th–12th centuries, probably over a Roman-era place of worship, as shown by two reused columns inside. Enlarged in the 17th century and restored in the 20th century, it preserves a finely crafted 1492 portal.
- Church of San Pietro: founded in the 12th century and entrusted to the Augustinians by the bishop of Terni in 1287, who initiated its reconstruction at the beginning of the 14th century, together with the adjoining convent.
Among the city’s historic buildings, notable examples include:
- Palazzo Spada: built in the 16th century by the prominent Spada family and designed by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger; it was the first courtyard-style palace in the city. Today it houses the Town Hall.
- Palazzo Mazzancolli: built around the mid-15th century, it is one of the few surviving examples of medieval architecture in Terni and currently hosts the State Archives.
Where industrial history meets art and cinema
Terni is also a city with an industrial soul, and this heritage is highlighted through an engaging industrial archaeology itinerary that includes authentic artefacts from former factories, such as the Great Hydraulic Press—an enormous steel structure weighing 12,000 tons, located in front of the railway station, used in the Terni steelworks from 1935 to 1993.
Contemporary architecture has also left a significant mark through artists like Arnaldo Pomodoro, creator of the monumental Lancia di Luce (a 105-tonne steel sculpture), and architects Mario Ridolfi and Mario Fagiolo, designers of Piazza Tacito with its scenic fountain.
Not to be missed is the CAOS Museum – Center for the Arts Opificio SIRI, set inside the former SIRI chemical plant. The 5,600 square metres of the old factory have been transformed into conference halls, teaching rooms, a theatre and a library. It houses the Aurelio De Felice Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art—featuring works by Chagall, Kandinsky, Miró, and Picasso—and the Claudia Giontella Archaeological Museum, showcasing artefacts from Terni’s protohistoric and Roman past.
Near Papigno, the former industrial plants have been transformed into film studios, used as sets for numerous films, including Roberto Benigni’s Life Is Beautiful and Pinocchio.
Nature and archaeology: waterfalls, lakes, and Roman cities
Terni is an ideal starting point for discovering some of Italy’s most fascinating natural wonders:
Marmore Waterfall: at 165 meters, it is the tallest waterfall in Europe and offers spectacular panoramic trails and activities such as rafting along the Nera River.
Lake Piediluco: a postcard-perfect landscape, perfect for rowing, sailing, or simply relaxing on the lakeshore. The village, with its colourful houses and the ancient church of San Francesco, is a small gem. From Piediluco, one can enjoy stunning views of the Echo Mountain on the opposite shore, a mysterious hill where extraordinary acoustic resonance effects can be heard.
Archaeological area of Carsulae: a Roman municipium along the Via Flaminia, accessible through the Arch of San Damiano. The site preserves the remains of the forum structures, the theatre, the amphitheatre, and the church of San Damiano, built using Roman materials.
Temples of Monte Maggiore: above Cesi, an ancient noble centre now part of Terni but once the capital of the Arnolfe lands, rises the imposing Mount Torre Maggiore. After passing the church of Sant’Erasmo, one reaches the sacred area at the summit, which preserves the remains of two important temple structures.