If you really want to enjoy Lake Trasimeno you should do it on the inside, that is, on its islands: Maggiore, Minore and Polvese. Go to San Feliciano and take one of the ferries to Polvese Island, the largest of the Lake's islands.
Starting at the Centro Servizi, go explore the island following the trail that goes along the vast extension of reed swamp. Rich with flora, it is the winter habitat for many water fowl. From here you'll reach the outer extremity of the island and enter the wood, especially interesting from a naturalistic point of view with its tall oak tree grove. Leave the wood at the crest and go to the Aquatic Plants Garden, where there is a 5 m deep pool dug into the rock fed by lake water. The main tank is surrounded by smaller ones where, starting in late spring, water lilies and lotus flowers blossom.
Once you have visited Polvese Island take the ferry back to San Feliciano and head to Punta Navaccia on the shore at Tuoro where you can take a ferry to Maggiore Island. Before getting on the boat, enjoy a plate of Fagiolina of Lake Trasimeno, a small lentil-like legume typical of the area, a DOP protected product.
Once you've dock at Maggiore Island, you'll be just a few metres from the centre of the little medieval village. Start your exploration of the island from here.
Once you have walked down the street with its old houses, take the path that leads up to the highest part of the island. From here you can enjoy gorgeous views of the lake and the olive grove, cypress and poplar-dotted landscape. A visit to the Church of San Michele Arcangelo is a must, after which you can head back down the path until you reach the lakeshore where, according to some accounts, St. Francis landed and prayed.
A tour of the local lace museum marks the last stop of this journey. Island lace, or Irish lace, is a craft handed down over generations by the island's women for more than a century. And remember that you can enjoy a delicious bowl of ‘tegamaccio', a fish stew made with sweet-water fish, in any one of the restaurants here.