Macerino – Acquasparta

Aerial view of the medieval castle of Macerino in the Monti Martani, surrounded by Umbrian forests

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Macerino – Acquasparta

Macerino is a hamlet of the Municipality of Acquasparta, perched on a mountaintop along the road connecting Acquasparta to Spoleto. This ancient route crosses the Monti Martani and is known as the “Strada delle Pecore” (Sheep Road), historically linked to the passage of flocks moving from the Spoleto Valley to the Todi–Amerino Valley during transhumance.

Origins and history of a castle at the head of the Terre Arnolfe

The medieval castle of Macerino, rectangular in shape, was built to fortify an earlier settlement that had developed near an ancient road dating back to the Umbri. Under Roman rule, this route became a branch of the Via Flaminia and, in later periods, continued to serve as a strategic connection across the Monti Martani, linking Carsulae, Portaria, Macerino, and Firenzuola before reaching the territory of Spoleto.

The first mention of Macerino dates back to 1093, when it was part of the Terre Arnolfe, governed from Cesi, and controlled the settlements of Colle Aiano, Fogliano, Villacampo, and Villa Paganica.

In the 15th century, it came under the rule of the Trinci family, who strengthened its defensive structures. Later, when Cesi lost its role as the capital of the Terre Arnolfe, this function was taken over by Macerino itself.In 1527, during the invasion of the Landsknechts of Charles V, the castle was captured by the Count of Montedoglio. His rule was short-lived, as the Spoletan captain Minervio led about 7,000 soldiers to defend the territories of Spoleto and Acquasparta. Finally, in 1606, Macerino established its own municipal statutes.

A stone archway at the entrance to Macerino Castle, from which you can see a narrow lane with steps and, at the far end, a green door

Access to Macerino Castle

A hiker beneath an ancient stone bridge, covered in moss and climbing plants, nestled in the woods of the Martani Mountains, near Macerino

Bridge at Macerino

A view from below of the medieval castle of Macerino, situated on a hill nestled in the woods of the Martani Mountains, with a clear sky in the background

Macerino Castle

Macerino from above

The castle of Macerino: defensive and religious structures

Macerino’s past as a political and strategic centre is still evident in its defensive structures. The castle preserves its walls, with four imposing corner towers and the entrance gate, above which the community’s coat of arms is carved.

Several religious buildings stand both inside and near the castle:

Church of San Biagio: built in the 10th century within the castle, opposite Palazzo Massarucci (16th century), it stands against the ancient keep of the defensive walls. Its interior has three naves, five altars, and a cycle of frescoes in the apse dedicated to the patron saint.
Church of Madonna in Fiore: a small devotional building constructed in 1670 just outside the castle walls. Inside, frescoes decorate the side walls and the back wall, featuring the Madonna and Child crowned by angels, flanked by Saints John the Baptist and Charles Borromeo.
Church of San Giovenale: located near the cemetery of Macerino, it features a pentagonal apse. Inside, the apse preserves frescoes from different periods, including a 13th-century depiction of Saint Francis in ecstasy by an anonymous Umbrian painter, and 17th-century paintings of Saint John the Baptist, Saint Giovenale wearing episcopal vestments, and Saint Roch.

A bridge through time: from Ponzia to Lucrezia Borgia

The ancient route across the Monti Martani, now known as the “Sheep Road,” has preserved its role over the centuries as a route for travel and transhumance.

Near Macerino, this path is marked by a striking monumental bridge, likely dating back to the 18th century but traditionally known as the “Ponte Romano” (Roman Bridge). Its evocative name recalls distant stories and intertwines with the journeys of remarkable women—both real and legendary—who passed along this route.

The story of Ponzia: memory carved in stone

Inside the Church of San Giovenale, an Early Christian marble sarcophagus dating to the second half of the 4th century was discovered and is now preserved in the National Archaeological Museum of Spoleto.

This refined tomb belonged to Ponzia, a Roman noblewoman from Sardinia traveling to Trier, who died after falling from her horse near Macerino, in a place known as Ripe Rosse or Pietra Rossa.

Only two large fragments of the front panel remain today, but thanks to a description written in 1712 by Bishop Lascaris, its original appearance can be imagined. At the centre was a circular clipeus bearing a Christogram flanked by Alpha and Omega, with a blessing Christ inscribed within a square decorated with lilies, and two Muses on either side. The monument also featured poignant verses carved on the sides, in which Ponzia’s husband mourned her premature death, which occurred before ten years of marriage and without heirs.

The presence of the sarcophagus in the Church of San Giovenale suggests that her body was brought to the nearest sacred area. Archaeological findings confirm the existence of an Early Christianburial area, likely connected to a place of worship.

Lucrezia Borgia in Portaria: stories of life and legends of death

In 1499, another famous woman traveled this route: Lucrezia Borgia. The daughter of Pope Alexander VI and governor of Spoleto, she was sent from Rome to take possession of the city. Pregnant at the time, she passed through the area with her escort, stopping in Portaria, where she stayed at the castle.

Numerous legends surround her figure. One of the most famous concerns the so-called “Palazzaccio” near Lake Firenzuola, believed to have been one of the residences of the Cesi family. According to tradition, it was here that she imprisoned her lovers, condemning them to a long captivity. Even today, it is said that on windy, rainy nights, their cries can still be heard from the underground chambers.