Villa Magherini Graziani with an arched loggia, central tower and a large leafless tree beneath a blue sky.
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Discovering the Villa in Tuscis

Imagine travelling back in time almost two thousand years and finding yourself in a vast natural amphitheatre, surrounded by sun-drenched hills, lush woodlands and vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see. This was the landscape that welcomed Pliny the Younger to his beloved villa in Tuscis, a country residence so extraordinary that the Roman writer never missed an opportunity to praise it in his celebrated letters.

Today, just a few kilometres from Città di Castello, near Colle Plinio in the municipality of San Giustino, that dream of ancient Rome comes back to life for modern travellers in a perfect blend of archaeology, history and nature.

A journey through ancient letters and archaeological excavations

Pliny described his villa not simply as a place of rest, but as a work of art set within the landscape of the Upper Tiber Valley. Archaeological excavations have brought to light a vast monumental complex, confirming the splendour described in ancient accounts.

The excavation and research work has revealed the remains of luxurious heated rooms, undoubtedly part of private baths, including an apodyterium (changing room) and even a sphaeristerium, a large hall devoted to ball games and physical exercise. Fine marble from Karystos and sophisticated decorations testify to the owner’s exceptionally high social status and refined aesthetic taste.

However, the villa was not devoted solely to otium (leisure), but also functioned as an advanced agricultural estate that took advantage of its proximity to the Tiber River to transport produce directly to Rome.

Villa Magherini Graziani: where history becomes a museum

To fully appreciate the importance of this site, an essential stop is Villa Magherini Graziani, a splendid late-Renaissance residence located in Celalba, near San Giustino. The property is enclosed by a pentagonal boundary wall and covers an area of approximately 60,000 square metres. Carlo Graziani commissioned the villa from the architect Antonio Cantagallina, a pupil of Vasari and Bruni, in the early 17th century, on the site of a medieval fortification.

Detail of the façade and tower of Villa Magherini Graziani, framed by the branches of a large tree.

Detail of the façade and tower of Villa Magherini Graziani

Angled view of Villa Magherini Graziani, with loggia, central tower and a large tree in the garden.

Angled view of Villa Magherini Graziani

Front view of Villa Magherini Graziani, with an arched loggia and central tower beneath a wide blue sky.

Front view of Villa Magherini Graziani

Inside the villa is the Archaeological Museum of Pliny the Younger’s Villa, conceived as an exhibition presenting the results of the archaeological and topographical research carried out between 1986 and 2003 at the site of Pliny’s villa by the Universities of Perugia and Alicante (Spain), together with the Archaeological Superintendency of Umbria.

The Archaeological Museum: a villa and its territory

The museum has recently unveiled an innovative new project that guides visitors through rural life in ancient Rome, the food and eating habits of the period, as well as the valley’s extensive trade networks.

Next to the ticket office and bookshop, the first rooms provide a historical overview of the museum’s origins and of the archaeological excavations that brought the site to light. The underground rooms (formerly cellars) retain a connection with their original function and are devoted to illustrating the various stages of wine production.

As visitors make their way up the staircase, lined with panels illustrating the history and family tree of the Graziani family, they reach the Loggia, which offers views over the Italian-style garden and the surrounding landscape. Here, an audio station plays Pliny’s letter to Apollinaris.

From the Loggia, the route continues into the Hall of Statues, which has been left empty to accommodate events organised by the municipality.

The archaeological section forms the heart of the exhibition. It features a large-scale reconstruction model of the Villa in Tuscis, enlarged photographs and a picture of the excavation team. The exhibition then follows the site’s history in chronological order through its various phases:

  1. the first Roman phase (3rd–1st centuries BC), represented by terracotta artefacts, black-glazed pottery and waste material from a kiln;
  2. the expansion and construction of the bath complex, documented through mosaics, wall plaster and Arretine ware;
  3. the age of Pliny—the section given greatest prominence—with a reconstruction model, amphorae, stamped bricks and tiles, glassware, coins and tableware;
  4. the final and post-classical phase, featuring site plans, coins and medieval pottery that bear witness to the continued use of the site during Late Antiquity and the Middle Age

A charming place

In addition to visiting the museum and archaeological park, take the opportunity to enjoy a refreshing walk along the surrounding trails. The landscape has remained remarkably faithful to the one Pliny described as “an extraordinarily beautiful landscape, which will give you the impression that you are looking not at a real place, but at a painting masterfully executed.”

Whether you are fascinated by Roman history, passionate about archaeology, or simply a traveller in search of picturesque destinations away from the usual crowded tourist routes, Pliny’s Villa offers a rich, captivating and unforgettable cultural experience.

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